I am 175lbs and for 40mm I use
Gravel: 35F 40R
Road: 45F 55R
I might bump that up 5psi for 35mm tires. and go up or down depending on the road surface and my mood for the day.
The Original chart that changed everything is here:https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/03/09/tire-pressure-take-home/
Then again, there is the tried and true Cyclocross method: go down in pressure until you start bottoming out, then add some back in. ;-)
All the above works best tubless.
The Berto chart is far from scientific. It assumes that a certain tire deflection is optimal. But that is only a guess; and is based on tubular (sew-up) tires. None the less, I've been using it as a good starting point with my own set-ups assuming that the rear tire is bearing 60% of the total weight of bike and rider. Depending on the tire I'm using, I find that I can easily go somewhat lower than the Berto charts would predict - especially for the front. And, tubeless changes things a bit since there is less risk of pinch flats. My method - actually recommended by the boys at GCN- is to start with either the Berto ideal pressure or the manufacturer recommended minimum pressure; and keep lowering the pressure until I find the lowest that doesn't seem to have excessive tire squirm. I only weigh 147 pounds and my gravel bikes around 20. I've found that on most 35-40mm tubless tires I ride, that 35/30 rear/front works pretty well. That goes for Compass Bon Jon's, Gravel Kings, Ramblers, and Schwalbe G-ones. Another factor to consider is hoop pressure on the rim, which is proportional to the tire diameter. A 45 mm tire exerts almost twice the inward pressure on your rim as does a 23 mm tire at the same inflation. For example, if the max inflation for a 23 mm tire on your wheel is 120 PSI, then the max inflation for a 45 mm tire is only 60 PSI. I believe that too much hoop pressure on the rim can possibly lead to loosening spoke nipples and spoke failure.