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NoCoGreg
Zurichman wrote:

Any suggestions here from anyone on how to protect the underneath side of my down tube. This bike sure does scratch up easy for all the miles I have put on it so far. One was up around the steering handlebars which I have no idea how that happened.
Zman

For a DIY solution, search the internet for "Helicopter Tape" with the intended use being the leading edge of helicopter blades.  I got a roll for cheap but don't recall where I ordered mine. Price does vary A LOT!  There are several thicknesses as well - I went with a mid grade (not the thickest and not the most expensive).

Here in Colorado there are a lot of car shops which sell a clear mask to protect the paint on the front of car's.  A car shop might have scrap they'll install or provide for free.  Good luck!

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chas
Zurichman wrote:


For that reason I have the extra crank laying around and would put the 105 on the new Noble bike so yeah I would be interested in the frame only if you can explain the forward geometry to me and it would fit like my Roker does now. A couple of the reasons I bought the Roker were.



Z:  My new bike (Cayon) has forward geometry.  Think of a longer top tube with a 10mm - 20mm shorter stem (my stem is 80mm!)    I'll let them explain it:

 

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MODERN GEOMETRY

Adding more stability at speed while maintaining agility for when things get technical is always a fine balance to strike. In all mountain biking disciplines, the move towards longer reaches combined with shorter stems and wider bars has been established with great effect to achieve this balance. We've adopted a similar approach ... Extending both reach and wheelbase results in extra stability at speed... Equipping  cockpits with wider bars and shorter stems further enhances control.

 

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chas
Mark_Landsaat wrote:

@Zurichman and Chas. It's interesting that you both like 2x over 1x. My first shipment of bikes will be 1x for the GX5. I did develop a 2x specific version of this frame as well. What would the interest be in 2x framesets? Or would you like to see a complete 2x build?

Let me know, appreciate the feedback!

p.s. sounds like you guys get a lot more riding in than me right now[biggrin]



One of the reasons I did not get a Roker was the 1x setup.  I'm using the bike as a "one bike to do it all" so I'm doing some long winding gravel and single track routes and also some fast "drop" road rides (with road tires).  So personally, need a big chain ring and tight spacing not to get dropped with the roadies, and a small chainring when I'm doing the rougher stuff on my own.  

If I was just doing solo rides or rides where I could chose my own pace (and not having to be at maximum efficiency), 1x would likely be fine.  For me needs, there is no drawback for 2x (other than possibly limiting the tire clearance at the chainstay?)
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Mark_Landsaat
@Chas,

That's great feedback regarding why 2x over 1x. Appreciate it. I hear you with the 2x being good for both road rides and gravel rides.

Definitely something for me to consider when building the next version of bikes. One of the advantages of 1x is a lighter simpler bike and you are correct in that in theory you can have more clearance with a 1x system. 

In reality a lot of bikes are still designed around a 2x system even if they ship with a 1x system so this doesn't always play out. As an example, the GX5 clearance was designed around a 2x system since not everyone prefers a 1x system.

Just got back from another produce development trip, will be in the US for a bit, time to get some saddle time in myself[smile]


Guy that does a little of everything at Noble Bikes
 

https://www.noble-bikes.com/


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