Eraguil
Sram Centerline X vs Shimano Freeza. 160mm. Centerlock.

I have not used either and would appreciate opinions before buying. I got a new wheelset and they got the hub "wrong", gave me centerlock when all I have is 6bolt. I know there are adapters out there but I like simple and would rather mess with 2 parts instead of 3.
Would appreciate opinions on preference and why.

TIA
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clarksonxc
I can't comment on SRAM vs Shimano rotors, and while I agree that it does suck that you have to use adapters because of their screw up, I will say that the DT swiss adapters I've used are excellent.  I'd have no issue using them from a performance or longevity standpoint.
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kriskexplorer
Depends on what brakes you have.  I recently got a new wheel set with centerlocks and I had BB7 brakes.  With the Shimano rotor the BB7 there wasn't enough clearance basically the wheel wouldn't turn due to the brake pad tabs.  I ended up swapping out the brakes with Shimano BR-CX77 which have been fine since.
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AlanEsh
kriskexplorer wrote:
Depends on what brakes you have.  I recently got a new wheel set with centerlocks and I had BB7 brakes.  With the Shimano rotor the BB7 there wasn't enough clearance basically the wheel wouldn't turn due to the brake pad tabs.  I ended up swapping out the brakes with Shimano BR-CX77 which have been fine since.

That's weird. 

I have Shimano centerlock rotors on BB7 road mechanicals, and they perform well. I cannot compare them to SRAM rotors having not owned them, but I have no complaints.
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kriskexplorer
AlanEsh wrote:

That's weird. 

I have Shimano centerlock rotors on BB7 road mechanicals, and they perform well. I cannot compare them to SRAM rotors having not owned them, but I have no complaints.


It might be the rotor I went with.  It was the Shimano XT SM-RT81.
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Eraguil
Sounds like Shimano then. Thanks for replies.
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Eraguil
Good news. I called JensonUSA about the hub being centerlock and not 6bolt as spec’d on their ad and they immediately offered to send me a pair of free rotors.

I just thought they should correct their ad for future buyers but they immediately offered so I said yes.

Maybe they won’t be the higher end ones but I can use them and replace if I don’t like them.

Now does the wheel come with the lock rings, or the rotors? OR do i have to buy that separate? 🤔🤦🏽‍♀️ If so, does one size fit all? 🤦🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️
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HollyBoni

Eraguil wrote:
Good news. I called JensonUSA about the hub being centerlock and not 6bolt as spec’d on their ad and they immediately offered to send me a pair of free rotors.

I just thought they should correct their ad for future buyers but they immediately offered so I said yes.

Maybe they won’t be the higher end ones but I can use them and replace if I don’t like them.

Now does the wheel come with the lock rings, or the rotors? OR do i have to buy that separate? 🤔🤦🏽‍♀️ If so, does one size fit all? 🤦🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️


Shimano rotors come with lock rings, it's the exact same thing as a (non XD) cassette lock ring.

https://www.bikewagon.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/7/3/73-313-302518-1.jpg

If you have thru axles that are bigger than 12 mil, you will need a different lock ring.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MF8AAOSwc1FXaTFR/s-l300.jpg


Centerlock is really nice, 6 bolt shouldn't even exist IMO. [angel] 

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Jeb
kriskexplorer wrote:
Depends on what brakes you have.  I recently got a new wheel set with centerlocks and I had BB7 brakes.  With the Shimano rotor the BB7 there wasn't enough clearance basically the wheel wouldn't turn due to the brake pad tabs.  I ended up swapping out the brakes with Shimano BR-CX77 which have been fine since.


I had the same problem but with 6 bolt Shimano rtors and BB7 brakes.
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Eraguil
HollyBoni wrote:



Shimano rotors come with lock rings, it's the exact same thing as a (non XD) cassette lock ring.

https://www.bikewagon.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/7/3/73-313-302518-1.jpg

If you have thru axles that are bigger than 12 mil, you will need a different lock ring.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MF8AAOSwc1FXaTFR/s-l300.jpg


Centerlock is really nice, 6 bolt shouldn't even exist IMO. [angel] 

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Eraguil
 Looks like I will need one of the bigger rings for front wheel. 15mm thru.
Thank you so much for pics/links, very helpful.  
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HollyBoni
Oh and I forgot that for the thru axle lock ring you need an integrated bottom bracket tool. 
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fb40dash5
HollyBoni wrote:
Oh and I forgot that for the thru axle lock ring you need an integrated bottom bracket tool. 


And for the rear, you probably want one of the wrenchy kind with a handle and open end, not the socket kind, unless your NDS adapter can be removed with the rotor on.

Discovered that trying to lube the freehub on my Novatecs. Axle comes out the NDS, but won't fit through the CL ring. And the Park socket won't reach the CL ring, it bottoms out on the axle end.

Also, you can use the bigger ones on any axle, might be easier to get the BB wrench to fit than a cassette tool for the small ring, even though you don't need it.
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HollyBoni

Didn't know about that, i'll withdraw my kill all 6 bolt comment then. [biggrin] (Joking)

Yeah getting the bigger one for both of the wheels might make sense, then you won't need two different tools to take off both rotors. 

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fb40dash5
I mean... only need different tools if you use different lockring designs. If you have 12mm or QR on both ends you can do either one on either end, and no matter what you can use the bigger ones all around. And if you have a rear hub with removable end adapters you could use whatever tool you want.

I only mentioned it because I couldn't find an external BB tool (which I'm sure I had years ago) and bought the socket kind specifically so I could use a torque wrench on the rotors, not just a stamped wrench handle. Oops...
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Eraguil
The rear is 12mm thru and front is 15mm thru. Removable end caps. So will be easier if I get both of the same, the bigger ones.
Lots and of good info.
ThX!!
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Zurichman
Kind of shows you how little I know about the new gravel bike components. I was finally getting some of the roadie stuff down. Never thinking that I will have to buy new rotors for my new wheel set for the wheels I am buying from oleritter here. I want to keep the stock wheel set for spares and eventually will probably put a mud tire set up on them How much weight difference is there between 160 and 140 rotors. The bike stops really well now with the stock rotors that I have on there as it has hydro brakes. What would be a mid range rotor set. The wheels are going to be center lock with thru hubs 15x100 and 12x142.

Thanks for any help.
Zman
If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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AlanEsh
Zurichman wrote:
Kind of shows you how little I know about the new gravel bike components. I was finally getting some of the roadie stuff down. Never thinking that I will have to buy new rotors for my new wheel set for the wheels I am buying from oleritter here. I want to keep the stock wheel set for spares and eventually will probably put a mud tire set up on them How much weight difference is there between 160 and 140 rotors. The bike stops really well now with the stock rotors that I have on there as it has hydro brakes. What would be a mid range rotor set. The wheels are going to be center lock with thru hubs 15x100 and 12x142.

Thanks for any help.
Zman

Are you replacing the rotors on your current wheels? If not just go with the same rotor on both sets of wheels. Weight difference is negligible unless you're already riding a multi-thousand dollar weight-weenie bike 😉
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Zurichman
Nah I am getting a new set of wheels built and want to keep the old wheel set intact so I can eventually have 2 sets of wheels for any kind of riding. The old set of wheels will eventually have some kind of mud tires on them.

Thanks
Zman
If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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chas
oleritter knows his stuff.  Just ask him what he recommend.  I, like you, was a bit lost.  He directed me to a very nice rotor and a very nice price.   Would have cost me a lot more if I had tried to find it myself.
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jfranci3
The only no-go rotor situation I've found with Camy H11.  With Sram 160 (and Shimano likely), they made a loud thunk thunk noise. No feeling, just an acoustic issue.
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